This series of photographs by Ramiro Fernandez entitled Cuba Then highlights the cosmopolitan character of pre Castro’s austere Cuba. From an undemocratic dictatorship with a teeming mass of illiterate unemployed fun-loving people, Castro effectively transformed Cuba into an undemocratic socialist dictatorship under his personal control and a dour shackled people. The teeming mass were provided with low paying jobs with no promotion prospects and no chance of freedom.
Prior to Castro’s ascendance to power, Cuba was a glamorous destination for the rich and famous especially those from America. This was all to dramatically change when Castro overthrew the Batisto regime in January 1959. With the collapse of Communism and the loss of support by their communist patron Soviet Russia, Cuba was forced to generate foreign currency. Partially this was done by reopening Cuba to tourism. In order to prevent discontent from arising, these resorts are stricly off-limits to the local Cubans. Despite this resurgence, Cuba has not regained the cachet that it once enjoyed.
Having visited Cuba recently, before what I personally believe to be, the American invasion (Macdonalds etc) It is a country caught in a time warp.Horse drawn carts in the streets of towns outside of Hab(v)ana, bicycle carts etc. No or little internet and cellphone coverage. The Cubans are reluctant to engage in conversation (language barrier) and perhaps being reported on by fellow Cubans and/or secret police?
All people earn the same salary, doctors, engineers etc and hence no incentive to work hard or harder to furthwer advance your career. A first glimpse of Cuba was at the airport waiting for our luggage. What was on the conveyor? Toilet paper and disposable nappies not only for one passenger!
With the partial tourism influx, not to the American resorts on the coast, many Cubans are now becoming involved in the tourism trade for the tips that they receive in Hard Currency or even the tourist currency. Our tour guide was a qualified pcsychologist and she missses her true vocation but is making more money as a tour guide!
A waiter in a hotel told me that he was an engineer by profession and same story as the tour guide, more money serving drinks as a waiter.
When looking at flea markets, everything is recycled, old bicycle parts etc,etc.
They love to party and have drinks on the plaza, which is a lovely experience to be part of. Having a beer and a cigarette or cigar. Being a non-smoker I did not indulge in the latter!
And can they DANCE,WOW!!! You name it they can do it!
In general the people are very poor, education seems to be very good with a shortage of books and pencisl etc.
My wife would not allow me to buy cigars on the black market one evening for fear of being arrested which is another story! We met an Irish gentleman that runs a guest house and is very content with the lifestyle and the illicit trading in Cigars and other goods.
Two things remain with me, the fact that food is still rationed (witnessed people queing for bread and rice!) and the general decay of the beautiful old Spanish buildings, some World heritage sites!
Will I go back, perhaps.. if my wife would like to go, and then to spend more time touring the country.
I will not risk driving there as we met a Dutch tourist whose passport was confiscated after an accident and was living from hand to mouth, two months after the event!