Originally published in the Illustrated London News dated 9th July 1881, this article contrasts the original buildings in Main Street with that of the Standard Bank which they use as the marker for the latest buildings. This a verbatim copy of that article.
Continue readingAuthor: Dean McCleland
Port Elizabeth of Yore: Sir Lewis Michell’s Years in Port Elizabeth
Lewis Michell first came to prominence as the General Manager of Standard Bank in Port Elizabeth. His tenure at the bank would result in a friendship with Cecil John Rhodes, the arch imperialist. Before his death in 1928, Michell had completed his autobiography. Despite never being published, portions of it have been used by other authors, the latest being the book on Rhodes by Richard Steyn entitled Rhodes and his Banker.
I am indebted to Jon Inggs for introducing me to this manuscript. The chapter on Port Elizabeth was especially interesting as Michell eloquently portrays not only the Town itself but also provides insightful comments on some prominent residents of Port Elizabeth.
Jon Inggs has used the AI program NoteBookLM to generate this blog and I have not amended it in anyway at all, even insignificantly. At the end of the blog I have included a copy of Michell’s original chapter on his assessment of the residents and the town itself. Likewise I have not made any amendments to the original. The reason why I included both the original and the AI version in this blog was to provide a way to assess the accuracy, fluency and readability of the AI version. On all counts I am impressed with AI’s ability to summarise the data under appropriate headings. On the negative side I found the AI version to be slightly rigid, even sterile, with little emotion, more akin to a text book than story. Perhaps that is how it should produce a formal assessment but I am not necessarily convinced. Judge for yourself.
Port Elizabeth of Yore: Replenishment of a Ship’s Water
Whenever a ship can moor at a jetty or a quay using mooring lines, the process of replenishing a ship’s water is simplified. All that is required are for water pipes to be laid along the wharf. Difficulties abound whenever there is a lack of such facilities, but these hassles are always mitigated or overcome whenever entrepreneurs abound.
This blog deals with these entrepreneurs and their solutions.
Main picture: Port Elizabeth From South End, painted by Baines in 1853, [Transnet Heritage Library N58606]
The French sailing ship: Le Necessaire
Historically, French naval vessels, like other sailing ships, primarily carried water in wooden barrels (also called casks, butts, or hogsheads) stored in the ship’s hold.
During extended voyage’s especially when sailing in enemy controlled waters, the collection of water from the shore was frowned upon as being too dangerous. Instead the sailors would rely upon rain squalls for water collection. In this case sailors would spread out sails to funnel rainwater into buckets and then decant it into casks. Even though the water could pick up a “unique” flavour from the oiled canvas, beggars could not be choosers.

The saga of the Le Necessaire highlights the consequences of obtaining water ashore especially when in enemy territory. During February 1752 the French sloop, the Le Necessaire together with two other vessels departed from the French Island of Mauritius with the objective of examining the southeast coast of southern Africa. They would have been aware of a Dutch settlement at Cape Town but were unsure of whether the Dutch were claiming or operating from any other portion of this vacant land.
It is presumed that the French squadron sailed steadily southward checking for human activities. With none visible, and being short of water, the French concluded that it was safe to land small boats to collect water. The location selected was the feeble stream called Shark River, now Happy Valley. In the process, the boat overturned in the surf, disgorging its nine occupants. In the meanwhile, a storm had steadily arisen overturning the small boat in the surf and forcing the Le Necessaire to withdraw to deeper water in order to prevent it from being driven onto the rocks on the shore further south.
Fully expecting their mother ship to return once the storm had abated, these French seamen were probably initially unperturbed by the withdrawal of their “home”, the Le Necessaire. The first hints of probable abandonment were possibly raised sotto voce the following day. With the full retreat of the stormy weather, which was presumably replaced by a vivid blue sky, expectations of their imminent rescue ran high. No record of what actually happened has survived but one can presume that those less sanguine silently explored their surroundings for food. In all likelihood, fish trapped in the blind Shark River were all that could be found.
Initially the expectations of being rescued would have high but after several more days of clear weather, the mood of the men would have would switched from expectant becoming morose and demoralised as the full impact of their abandonment by the Le Necessaire became abundantly clear. Comprehending the gravity of their situation, they would have set off to the closest town, Cape Town, 800 kilometres away. In reality they only would have had to survive the 398kms to Mossel Bay as in 1792 this was the eastern border of the Cape colony. The only objects that they bore were a musket and two pistols and possibly some water caskets. Apart from their practical use to carry water, these casks could be used in a barter transaction with the indigenous Khoikhoi or Hottentots as they were locally known.
No record survives of these nine men’s travails, but it is safe to assume that they would have begged, borrowed and stolen supplies off the local khoikhoi en route to survive. In reality they would only have to survive the 368kms to Mossel Bay as in 1792 this was the eastern border of the Cape Colony. Nonetheless it was still a formidable target.
John Barrow’s observation
During 1797 John Barrow noted how ships in that era ships replenished their water supplies in the Bay. As there were no jetties at that stage, Barrow noted that “copious amounts of fresh water were to be obtained from a spring which lay close to the landing place just below a hill overlooking the mouth of a small river. Sailors floated the barrrels in and out of the surf.” This rivulet was presumably the Baakens River. Further Barrow noted that “This was a hazardous business even at the best of times.“
The first piped water supply
On page 98 of his thesis on the development of the harbour in Port Elizabeth, Jon Inggs includes this comment regarding Fortuin: “The only other improvement to port facilities during this period [1820s] was the provision of water to ships by a Malay, Fortuin Weys. He erected a pump and laid pipes from it to the landing beach.

Harradine describes the first enterprise of this kind by Fortuin Weys 1829 as “a pump to pipe water to the sea’s edge from a well in Market Square.”
By 1834 Weys was described by Thomas Pringle as “one of the wealthiest and most respectable inhabitants of the place’. He had originally been granted land at Algoa Bay in March 1820. By the time the settlers landed, his house, still under construction, was the second substantial one to be built at what was soon to become Port Elizabeth. He was listed as a blacksmith by Griffin Hawkins in 1822. In time he acquired a number of properties in the town and further afield”.
Later piped water scheme
In his thesis Jon Inggs notes that the next development in the water supply business, was the “formation of the Algoa Bay Mooring and Watering Company in September 1850.” According to Harradine it was only during April of the following year that the Company commenced operations. The reason for this delay was because it experienced “an impure water problem.” To rectify it, rights were secured to a supply of water from south of the Baakens River. A large tank was built over the springs on the south side of the Baakens River and piping carried the water beyond the surf to a water boat from which ships could be supplied.
Twelve tons of water could be loaded into their waterboat in 30 minutes. This in turn could be pumped into a ship in 40 minutes. The service “did away with necessity of loading casks.”. In October 1851, the Company was able to provide H..M.S. Rhadamanthus with 27 tons of water. Based upon this performance, local commentators reckoned that the provision of water would become the port’s first permanent facility.
The hulk of an old wrecked ship stripped of its fittings and permanently moored, was utilised as storage space for items to be used by ships in trouble. In this case, the hulk housed a supply of cables and anchors. In the case of the gale over the 15th and 16th October 1850, the hulk had the necessary equipment but no requests were made for its use resulting in the loss of three shipsviz the Doris, the John Witt and the Mary Ann.
Vandalisation
The successful inception of operations created a positive vibe throughout the town. Speculation abounded regarding what other services would shortly be offered. Instead of elation there was dejection. Malicious irresponsible actions by vandals had popped the bubble. During the night they had turned on the watercock and drained the whole tank . On the subsequent night they had “Besmeared the whole boat”
The company soon abandoned its mooring business. During November 1851 the hulk and its fittings was offered for sale. For these and other reasons, the company experienced a faltering start, finally being wound up in 1857
. In December 1857 a stone tank was built over the spring and the old wooden tank was removed.
By November the Company’s waterworks had been inspected and certified by the Government Engineer, George Pilkington, who was favourably impressed. An iron pipeline ran out beyond the surfline from the reservoir south of the Baakens.

Era of the jetties
The construction of the North Jetty did not relieve the situation as moorings were restricted to small vessels. Larger ships had to be serviced while at the roadstead with lighters ferrying goods between South Jetty and the vessel at anchor.
Water storage and quality
Onboard Storage: Large quantities of fresh water were loaded into wooden barrels before a voyage. These were often stored in the lower parts of the ship to serve as necessary ballast.
Water Quality: The water often became stagnant, foul-smelling, and a breeding ground for algae and microorganisms after a few weeks at sea, especially in warmer climates. To make it more palatable and to inhibit bacterial growth, it was often mixed with alcohol (wine in the French navy, or later rum, which created grog).
Replenishment: Ships relied heavily on stopping at ports or suitable landfalls such as islands with streams or springs in which to empty, clean and refill their barrels.
Early distillation
By the mid-18th century, some ships, including the HMS Victory had small sills attached to a galley stove that could distill small quantities of freshwater from sea water. However, this method only produced limited quantities e.g. 9 litres per day on a large vessel and was reserved for the sick bay. It was never a primary source of water for the entire crew due to the large quantities of wood fuel required
Later innovations
The widespread use of efficient distillation apparatus such as the French designed jet condensor only became practical with the advent of steamships in the 19th century, which had ample waste heat available from their boilers.
In essence, carrying sufficient fresh water was a constant struggle and a major limiting factor for long voyages during the age of sail.
Sources
Liverpool of the Cape: Port Elizabeth Harbour Development by E. Jon Inggs
Algoa Bay in the Age of Sail -1488-1917 – A Maritime Story by Colin Urquhart Bluecliff Publishing, Port Elizabeth
Port Elizabeth of Yore: Biographies of William Fleming Senior and Junior
These biographies have been created by ChatGPT. I included photographs from my collection to provide some colour and interest. The reason why I selected this father and son combination as my first blog created by AI was to assist me in disentangling the lives of two men with the same name. Fortunately for biographers, even though William Junior’s son was also christened William, he was not prominent in Port Elizabeth affairs and exited the scene by relocating to Cape Town. Secondly, William Junior married my second great aunt, Adelaide, who was Rev Francis McCleland’s daughter.
Continue readingA SMAC in the Face #105: No (F@%)Kings
The madcap red cap maggots think Trump’s policies are to DEI for on the back of Trump advocating for no queens (and hating Queens along with the rest of New York). Meanwhile America is shouting back, “No Kings”. Republicans answer that the No Kings movement consists of people who hate America and are actually members of that most dangerous of all terrorist organisations – Antifa.
For people who don’t follow US politics, antifa merely means anti-fascist to describe people who reject fascism – an honourable standard to uphold. It is not an organization in any shape or form, but is used as a slur much like branding a person a communist during the McCarthy era. Why it is so gleefully used by Republicans against people who refuse to go along with their diktats is that, I believe, it conjures up the word Intifada in people’s minds. This resonates with MAGA because Intifada is an Arabic word for a rebellion or uprising and was specifically used to describe Palestinian resistance to Israel in the First Intifada (1987–1993) and the Second Intifada (2000–2005).
The rash of popular ‘No Kings’ protests against the indiscriminate use of presumptive Presidential executive orders, that have little or no legal basis, harkens back 250 years to the American war of Independence against a distant monarchy that existed in a gilded bubble. (Alright, Britain was a sort of democracy but there was no universal franchise and the King held enormous sway.) Trump’s unique approach to the Presidency along with a compliant Supreme court threatens to hollow out all the underpinnings of America’s democracy and turn it into a horrible tribute show for the Orange Jesus.

Contrary to Trump’s vain boasts which, as usual, are light on facts, he is proving to be an unpopular President. He and all his toadies and the ‘Voice of America’, Fox News, repeatedly state that his resounding victory gave him a mandate. Really? A mandate to do what – to upend the whole well balanced American democracy with a machine gun blast of vile executive orders like a demented rapper high on his tanning spray?
It is true that the Republicans also won both houses and control the Supreme court 6 – 3, but let’s look at his personal mandate. Yes, he did beat Harris by 2.28m votes but this was after she replaced the doddery Biden on the slate with only 107 days to go. It should be noted that he did not actually receive more than 50% of all the votes cast. Also, “Slo Joe, I call him Slo Joe, you know” had actually beaten Trump by 7m votes previously. So much for his popularity.
As the 47th President, he is the most unpopular President ever at this stage of his incumbency with a 37% approval rating. To achieve this high honour, he had to beat that other most unpoular President, Donald J Trump Jr, in his previous incarnation as the 45th President which he has done handsomely.
Back to the No Kings rallies. While the tacky King Midas with his golden décor touch skulked and sulked in his personal shrine at Mar-a-Lago complete with fake Times magazine covers about himself, 7 million Americans turned out in all 50 states in 2700 protests to express their displeasure. With crowds seething with cartoon figures, narco blow up frog costumes, out of control horny unicorns, protesting grannies and sarcastic posters, not one shot was fired, no tear gas or smoke had to be deployed and everyone was happy without having to get high first. It was remarkably unifying.
As the US motto fittingly states, “E pluribus unum” (out of many, one).
Port Elizabeth of Yore: The Saga of the Le Necessaire
By the mid-eighteenth century, South Africa still only possessed one port – Cape Town. This did not imply that sailing vessels did not occasionally anchor offshore and send a small boat ashore either to collect water and other victuals or more ominously to mount surveillance operations. So it was in the case of a French sloop, Le Necessaire, in 1752 off Humewood.
In doing so, a calamity would befall a tiny French boat leading to the exposure of ulterior French intentions.
Main picture: A French Sloop
Continue readingPort Elizabeth of Yore: A Visitor’s View of the Town
My brother found a series of six historic postcards all written on by the same person. This fact is deduced from the fact that all the cards bear the same handwriting. This conclusion is substantiated by the fact that all of the cards form part of the same ‘framed’ series of postcards. As none of them were posted he reckons that it was a visitor who bought them instead of taking photos as few people owned cameras in those days. Instead, they added notes to serve as an aide memoir. It is interesting to see how that person viewed PE at the time.
Main picture: View across Market Square towards Whites Road
Continue readingPort Elizabeth of Yore: Duo of Serpentine Specialist and Snake Showman
Frederick Fitzsimons might have been at the apex of his profession as a herpetologist with worldwide recognition but Johannes Molikoe, a mere snake handler, had even greater recognition. Whereas a trickle of visitors would visit FitzSimons, a flood of people demanded to attend a show with Johannes Molikoe as the star of the show
Main picture: Amongst those enthralled by Johannes’ show in 1947 was the Royal Family. Frederick William FitzSimons is on the right
Continue readingPort Elizabeth of Yore: Cowboy Mills of Wide Horizons
During my youth, there was a zoo / animal sanctuary at Rocklands known as Wide Horizon on the road to Uitenhage. The owner / zookeeper was an iconoclast, with the pertinent sobriquet of Cowboy Mills. Being very young at the time, I recall very little of the place other that the entrance with a billboard advertising the delights inside. Whether we actually went inside, I cannot recall.
Main picture: Hugh Cadle Mills aka Cowboy Mills
Continue readingA SMAC in the Face #84: The Almighty Cod
The beginning of Trump’s second Presidency has been without precedent. It has been characterised by extreme chaos as he has been all over the place like a demented squirrel on tik. He has declared economic war on everyone (except his secret bff, Putin), threatened to own Panama, Greenland, Canada and Gaza and he is busy taking a chainsaw to the Federal system courtesy of his point man and ‘Tech Support’, Elon Musk.









