Port Elizabeth of Yore: Living Conditions during the First Decades

Initially there were 4000 Settlers camped in tents amongst the sand dunes without running water or ablution facilities. Upon their departure, those who, for whatever reason remained, would have faced the nightmarish twin plights of erecting a shelter and eking out a living. Both were daunting. Nothing was uncomplicated. Everything was a challenge. Nothing could have prepared them for what they had to face.

At best the living conditions in this undeveloped land must have been primitive and at worst squalid. JJ Redgrave in this book, Port Elizabeth in Bygone Days, provides a peak into this unknown world.

Main picture: Examples of Settlers’ Homes

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: Captain Moresby of the HMS Menai

Normally when critical civic events occur, it is highly unusual for lower ranking military officers to not only offer their services but also to willingly partake in those activities. In the case of Port Elizabeth, it was the actions of two Captains, one a military officer, Captain Francis Evatt,  and the other a naval officer who expedited the disembarkation of the 1820 Settlers.

This blog will deal with the selfless actions of the latter, Captain Fairfax Moresby of HMS Menai.

Main picture: Captain Sir Fairfax Moresby

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: Worst Plane Crash in PE

Technically one cannot classify the crash of the Rietbok as the worst crash in Port Elizabeth. Even though it departed from Port Elizabeth, it crashed just off the coast at Kidd’s Beach, East London.

On Friday 4th December 1959, a PV1 Ventura crashed with the loss of the crew of 5, making it the worst air crash in Port Elizabeth.

Main picture: Lockheed PV1 Ventura painting by Ron Belling in VIP Transport Colours

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: From the Herald Chambers to Cleghorns on Market Square

The building on the northern corner of White’s Road opposite Market Square was originally built in 1861 by Paterson, the owner of the Eastern Province Herald. In 1864, just after the construction of the grand Town Hall was completed, he named the building the Herald Chambers”, and relocated his newspaper there.

In March 1884, the department store, Cleghorn and Harris, was opened in “Herald Chambers” in the Market Square. A decade later, in January 1894, they purchased the building.

This store was located in a prime location overlooking the pivotal point in Port Elizabeth. It was not the hoi polloi and the down-at-the-heel who were attracted to the restaurant with its view of the Town Hall but the elite.

Main picture: Cleghorn’s Building burnt down on the 6th May 1896

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: The Artillery Piece in the Market Square

Since 1863, the obelisk had occupied pride of place in Market Square. After 58 years, it had almost become synonymous with the centre of Port Elizabeth with its water troughs serving as a vital drinking place for thirsty horses. On 4 March 1921 the obelisk was be dethroned to be replaced by the S.A. Heavy Artillery memorial in the form of a howitzer.

Would this memorial gain the cachet of the obelisk or would it be ignominiously removed unlamented? Only time would tell.

Main picture: The howitzer on a granite plinth in Market Square in 1926

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: The History of the Van Stadens Area

The river was named after Marthinus van Staden, one of the area’s pioneering farmers. He was also among the first to plot a rudimentary track through the valley. It is through the steep, winding gorge for which this River is renowned.  

The Van Stadens River rises in the Elandsberge and cuts through the Van Stadens Berg. Just east of the river on the N2 one may see rounded, marine gravels, dating back 30 million years BP, [Before the Present] resting on Table Mountain quartzite.

Main picture: The Witteklip Rock which served as a scratching post for elephants and later used for a more mundane purpose as an outspan for wary travellers

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: From Temporary Jetty to Focal Point – The North Jetty

The erection of the North Jetty was the second attempt at constructing a jetty in Algoa Bay. The first one had been unceremoniously destroyed in a ferocious gale on the 26th August 1843 when three ships were driven through it. Until the construction of the South and the Dom Pedro jetties almost 30 years later, this small extemporised jetty would serve as the focal point of the harbour.

As it turned out, this temporary jetty would fulfil the starring role as the main jetty until the Charl Malan Quay was built, some 63 years later.

Main picture: An early view of the North Jetty probably from the 1870s

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: Moorings instead of a Harbour

As Jon Inggs acknowledges in his enlightening thesis on the development of the harbour until 1870, “Nothing was done to improve landing facilities at Algoa Bay before 1820 apart from setting up a flagpost on the landing beach with the dual role of marker and signal as to whether it was safe to land or not”.

What would be done, if anything, over the first decade from 1820 to 1830 in order to improve matters for shipping in Algoa Bay?

Main picture: Port Elizabeth from the shipping in 1850 by HWHC Piers [NMM Art Museum]

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: The Grandiose 1905 Harbour Scheme That Never Was

At the turn of the 20th century, Port Elizabeth still did not possess a harbour. For fifty years no progress had been made in spite of a barrage  of requests. In 1905 the Cape Government submitted three proposals to a commission of engineers in London to adjudicate them. The commission recommended the submission by Coode, Son and Matthew but would this proposal be the plan to eventually be executed?

Main picture: Proposed new dock at Port Elizabeth with the outer wharf at North End

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Port Elizabeth of Yore: When the Swartkops River almost became a Port

Far be it for me to impugn the motives of the Port Elizabeth Harbour Board for requesting an eminent harbour engineer,  Mr. C.W. Methven, to report on the practicability of building a harbour at the mouth of the Swartkops River. Accordingly I will not speculate as to their rationale but rather assume that the issue regarding silting would forever bedevil the construction of a breakwater at or in close proximity to the existing jetties and landing beaches.

Main picture: 1862 map of the Swartkops River

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