This blog is based entirely upon an article entitled Christmas at Port Elizabeth from the defunct magazine An African City in 1913. What I have done is to insert comments regarding changes or to emphasize differences between then and now. In some ways it is familiar and in other ways so dissimilar.

Main picture:  Aerial view of Humewood#03 1935

This article commences with the typical “word salad”of a promotional brochure. One may skip the first three paragraphs until the real meat of the article is presented.                                                                  

When the sun is at its hottest and the red dust is thick on the ground, we gasp for the delicious cool sea breezes and for the white sands and gulls and the beautiful, restless sea. It is our happy lot in South Africa to have our summer holidays at Christmas time, which means, of course, that we can combine our Yuletide festivities with the thousand and one·summer sports dear to the heart of South African youth.

To think of Christmas brings memories of blazing noontide under the scented pines, [Where are they?] of long stretches of sand glimmering in the brilliant light, of delicious plunges into the rushing surf and splashing in the translucent green water and idling away glorious days on the white sands. It is when the call of the sea is strong upon us that the problem arises in our minds of where to go for our summer holidays.

South Africa is a vast country with a tremendous coastline, and we have many points to consider before we can venture to decide on the scene of our holidays-to-be. If our time is short, we must think of distances to be saved; if our pockets are not too well-lined expenses must also be considered. If we are socially inclined, we must seek kindred spirits. Having weighed the pros and cons, we of the North decide on Port Elizabeth with its many attractions, with its picturesque setting and its splendid climate, and its cleanliness and hospitality. We realise too the admirable efforts made by the Port Elizabeth Municipal officers and townspeople to forestall every need of ours, and we appreciate all the improvements they have made for our benefit. Having arrived at Port Elizabeth we take a car from the Market Square to the popular suburb of Humewood, [Surprisingly Humewood had only recently been opened up for development. At this stage King’s Beach did not exist to the same extent as the sand had not accumulated sufficiently enough along the breakwater to create a huge expanse of sand ]

passing en route some of the busy thoroughfares at the South End of the town, and as we move quickly way from the noisy streets, we can admire the pretty little villas with their nicely laid out gardens. In a few minutes we find ourselves at Humewood where mixed bathing is in full swing. [Shortly before 1913 mixed bathing was taboo. Males and females were allocated times when they could bathe and males were not allowed to watch them. Mixed bathing was first condoned in Humewood but at the mouth of the Baakens it was still prohibited.] Comfortable deck chairs with hooded tops can be hired for a few pence, and we take our places amongst the crowd on the sand, settling ourselves comfortably to watch the bathers.

[The attire of the sunbathers ironically included such items of clothing such as a tie]

Suits abounded

                                                   

After having refreshed ourselves at one of the cafes, we visit the children’s playground, with its merry-go-rounds and side-shows, sand-modelling competitions and sand sports, [These activities were all held on the seashore and not in Happy Valley] and above all its bathing and paddling pools which are crowded with little ones enjoying themselves hugely.

A little further on, we find picnic parties making merry under the shady trees of the Humewood Valley [They are probably referring to Happy Valley] and then we come to the Fisheries, [Now called Hobbie Beach] where we are just in time to see the fishing boats arriving with their spoil. [Previously this section was called the Fisheries as fishing and whaling was performed from this area.].

[The bathing pavilion was in operation from 1913 until 1968 when it  was demolished.]

Further along the beach is the Point, a favourite resort for the sea angler, where fine sport is obtained fishing off the rocks. For those fond of a still longer stroll, a walk to Cape Receife Lighthouse can be recommended. Here lies the wreck of the s.s. ltzehoe, which went ashore in 1911.

Returning to the town, we follow Victoria Drive, [This must be Target Kloof and not Victoria Drive] part of which is hewn out of the side of the hills and flanked by shady trees. Soon we come to the bridge over the Baakens River, and ascending the hill on the other side we enter Walmer, a pretty residential suburb of the busy townsfolk.

Passing through Walmer to the south-west we come to Schoenmakerskop, [In 1913 Victoria Drive was a dirt track. It was only in 1922 that Marine Drive was converted into a proper road] and find ourselves alone with Nature. The numerous birds in the bush on either side of us give forth their morning melody, and now and again a monkey scuttles across our path. Onward we go until we reach a number of bungalows where we are greeted by friends who are full of praise of the charms of Schoenmaker’s. 

[In 1913 Schoenmakerskop had not yet been declared a township. All that it comprised were wooden shacks. The types of houses in the hamlet spanned at least two iterations. First came the wooden or wood-and-iron shacks epitomized by that of Clarence Wood. Some time later as finances improved a Mark 1A upgrade was performed. Finally it too was replaced by the Mark II, a solid brick house.  This change occurred over a 20 to 30 year period. Obviously houses built from the 1930s onward went straight to the Mark II phase.]

We still follow the road until we come to a place where a magnificent sweeping view of the massive rocky coast stretches before us. To the right, bay after bay extends in the foreground. Sardinia Bay, further on the Chelsea Beach and the Van Staadens River mouth, while in the extreme distance, obscured by a slight mysterious haze, looms the broad sweep of the St. Francis Bay with its cape jutting out to sea.

Thus passes one of our precious holidays.

On another day we visit Red House, a nice little village on the banks of the Zwartkops River, where there is much boating and sailing and rowing. It is here that the interport yacht races are held. It is also a favourite resort for picnickers, the most frequented place being Picnic Reach, a few miles up the river.

We have by no means exhausted the charms of the Port Elizabeth suburbs; there are still ‘The Gorge” and van Staaden’s Pass” to be visited, but there are many other attractions nearer at hand which must be mentioned. There are first of all Prince Alfred’s Lake and the North End Lake, where boating of every description may be obtained. There are three parks: St. George’s, Prince Alfred’s and Victoria. There are the golf links, bowling green, and tennis courts, the fine saltwater swimming bath, the museum and public library.